By Casey Malone
Pat, pat, pat! Smack, pat, sizzle!
That is the glorious sound of delicious, mouth-watering pupusas being made. These corn masa, cheese and protein-filled Salvadoran circles of flavor are Tiko Riko’s staple dish.
But this is just one sound reverberating throughout the brightly colored, energy-filled establishment. On any given day, at any given time, this small Hispanic restaurant in Seattle’s Greenwood neighborhood is bustling.
The bell on the door rings every few minutes alerting the arrival of hungry children, businessmen on their lunch break or family friends stopping by to chat.
Mario Guillen Jr., owner and son of co-owner, Mario Guillen Sr., cheerfully greets customers, recognizing regulars and welcoming first-timers.
“I’m at the counter, I’m the person you see all the time,” he said. “I love the interaction with customers, meeting new people. It’s my type of thing.”
Opened in July 2012, family-run Tiko Riko serves Latin American staples to a satisfied and growing audience. Built on a father’s dream, the Guillens’s restaurant reflects the rising number of Hispanic businesses in the U.S. economy.
According to Geoscape’s Second Annual Report of 2014–a company that provides data on international and Latin American markets by analyzing demographic data –post-recession optimism about entrepreneurship is positive, particularly within the Hispanic population. Latinos represent 20.4 percent of all new entrepreneurs, compared to 16 percent a decade ago. Between 2002 and 2007, the growth rate for Hispanic-owned businesses was 44 percent compared to 17.8 percent for all U.S. firms.
Originally from Acapulco, Mexico, Mario Guillen Sr. always aspired to open a restaurant of his own. Moving to the U.S. in 1985, he worked in the food industry for nearly 14 years with jobs at Chevy’s Fresh Mex and the Space Needle’s SkyCity restaurant.
Always close with his father, Guillen Jr., who moved to the U.S. from Mexico when he was four, wanted to help him make his dream a reality. Leaving behind a background in car sales, he took a gamble and went into business with his father.
“We were skeptical about things,” he said. “You hear a lot about restaurants opening and failing right away, closing, and there goes your money.”
But the Guillens found a restaurant for sale in Greenwood. Excited to keep the establishment within the Hispanic community, the former owner agreed to sell to them on one condition: that the Guillens keep the feeling of the restaurant the same.
Keeping the previous restaurant’s signature pupusa and comfortable atmosphere, the Guillens added Mexican staples to the menu.
“I wanted to give it a new flavor,” Guillen Sr. said.
Working together in the kitchen and on the floor, with the help of their family friend, Nora Acosta, the father-son duo dish out multitudes of burritos, enchiladas, plantains, yucca and pupusas everyday.
“It’s really easy, it’s like we’re at home,” said Guillen Jr.
Originally, Mario Guillen Jr. said Tiko Riko brought in more non-Hispanic customers than Hispanic. He believes the diverse, business-oriented Greenwood area to be the cause—an aspect he likes a lot.
“It’s just everything,” he said. “Everybody’s so friendly. There are the Vietnamese owners of the fruit stand, and right next door is a Ukrainian owner. They’re all really friendly people.”
But, regardless of ethnicity, the current reaction from Tiko Riko customers is positive.
“I haven’t had delicious, family-made food like this since leaving home in California,” said Zoe Vais, a Seattle resident. Vais heard about Tiko Riko from Yelp, where the restaurant holds a 4.5 star rating out of a possible five stars.
This success is expected to continue nationally. According to Geoscape, the number of Hispanic-owned businesses is projected to increase more than 3.22 million this year, representing a staggering growth rate of 43 percent since 2007. Additionally, in the Pacific region alone, the projected increase in number of Hispanic-owned businesses from 2007-20014 is 35 percent.
But, as the Guillens continue to contribute to a growing national and global economy, they stay true to their original goals.
“When you are here, there is good service and good food,” said Mario Guillen Sr. “Everyone feels like they’re at home.”
